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New Zealand: Tongariro Alpine Summer Crossing – A crossing like no other

Published April 2017 by Trevor. Updated August 2020.

Described as one of New Zealand’s greatest day hikes, the Tongariro Alpine Crossing can be a challenging journey, across a remarkable volcanic landscape.

Volcanic activity on the trail

Logistics

Staying in the Tongariro National Park village, we had transport provided at either end. 

Start of the uphill trail

Requiring a good level of fitness to complete the Tongariro Alpine Crossing hike, you need to cover the distance of around 19.4km (12mi) in 7-8 hours. This includes two challenging climbs, of around an hour each, carrying a day pack.

Long flat stretch across an old crater

It’s not just a ‘stroll in the park’, but a serious hike over a mountain. 

Crater views

Highlights

Among the highlights are steaming vents and hot springs, old lava flows, beautiful water-filled craters and stunning views.

Views to the south west

On clear days you can see Mount Taranaki in the west, Mount Ngauruhoe (Mt Doom), Kaimanawa Ranges, Lake Taupo and beyond.

Half way! View before going down the screen slope to the lakes

The best views are from the highest point, Red Crater, 1,886m (6,188ft). From here, the track descends steeply to Emerald Lakes and you can see across to the Blue Lake past the Central Crater. The Emerald Lakes’ brilliant colour is caused by minerals leaching from the adjoining thermal area.

Thermal steam near the lakes

Thermals can be seen steaming around the Red Crater and Emerald Lakes.

Scree slope descending to Emerald Lakes

There is a short but narrow ridge you need to cross to reach Red Crater. In high winds, this can be quite tricky to navigate. 

Ketetahi Hut sign

A  very steep scree slope also awaits your descent to Emerald Lakes. At Ketetahi Hut, look out for the room where a volcanic rock fell through the roof during the 2012 volcanic eruptions.

After the hut, the trail winds down through scrub and native bush to the carpark

After the hut, there is a lengthy descent back to the car park at Ketetahi Car Park (end of the crossing).

Onwards and upwards!

Trevor

Insights

  • Plan and book ahead. The Tongariro Alpine Crossing hike is free, but it’s not a circular track, meaning you’ll need to arrange for someone to drop you off at the beginning and pick you up at the end of the track. 
  • Transport can easily be arranged from Taupo, which serves as a great base for all sorts of North Island adventure activities, or within the Tongariro National Park. 
  • For other transport or accommodation options, check out the Tongariro Crossing website.
Going down the scree slope to the lakes
  • Watch the weather. The weather on the Tongariro crossing can change rapidly, so be prepared to change your plans and turn back, especially when visibility is poor and there are strong winds
  • Check the Tongariro or National Park mountain forecasts
An easy section at the start of the track
  • If the Department of Conservation (DOC) advises against hiking the Crossing, heed their warnings – https://www.doc.govt.nz
  • The Tongariro Alpine Crossing can technically be hiked year-round. However, it’s best hiked in the summer months (December-February).
  • If you do want to hike the Tongariro Alpine Crossing in the winter, a guide is recommended. 
A long flat stretch up top
Mt Ngauruhoe (Mt Doom)
Blue Lake
  • Take lots of water and snacks. There isn’t anywhere to refill water bottles or buy food.
Scree slope from a distance
  • Cellphone coverage is intermittent and shouldn’t be relied upon in an emergency.
Take care – this is an active volcano!
  • If a volcanic eruption happens, make sure you look up and see which direction the rocks are falling, then run the opposite way!
Volcanic activity on the northern slopes

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