Winter

Australia: Alpine Skills Course

Published October 2020 by Trevor. Updated June 2021.

Introduction

What do you get when you sign up with an accomplished mountaineer? And the first Australian and Commonwealth citizen to have climbed all 14 x 8000ers – without oxygen? Well, with Andrew Lock, you get the full gambit. There is nothing that this guy doesn’t know. We would trust him with our lives if it depended on it. So with that, we signed up with Andrew to undertake an essential alpine skills course.

Alpine Skills

The three day course is designed to teach you the necessary skills to enjoy Australia’s alpine regions, responsibly and safely. Coupled with an option of an ascent of Australia’s tallest peak, Mt Kosciuszko (2,228m).

A fascinating fact of Mt Kosciuszko. While it’s about one quarter of the size of Mt Everest at 8848m, Everest is only a baby. Everest at 60 million years old is younger than Kosciuszko, at 440 million years old!

Setting off from Thredbo in great conditions carrying a 18kg pack, we snow shoed up towards the main range located in the Snowy Mountains. We took turns to tow a pulk behind us which was loaded up with more of our camping gear.

The first thing you learn when you are exposed to alpine conditions, is to select your tent site carefully, having checked the prevailing wind direction. Followed then by protecting your site by building a snow wall to protect your tent from the elements. This proved very beneficial as we encountered some 70kmh winds which made for some interesting navigation skills in white out conditions.

Snow wall around tent — Carefully constructed snow walls!

Having hiked up Australia’s tallest peak, Mt Kosciuszko in summer, the alpine winter conditions encountered were naturally, very different. We managed to summit not only ‘Kosci’ (as we locals call it) but also two of Australia’s other tallest peaks in Rams Head North and Etheridge Ridge.

View of tents coming down from Rams Head North

A recent film made in conjunction with the North Face, titled ‘Western Faces‘ mentions that Australia’s alpine conditions are of a similar and challenging terrain as found in Chamonix, France, with lots of powder snow and steep terrain. Which just goes to prove, you don’t need to travel all the way overseas to encounter great snow conditions and to have fun.

Onwards and upwards!

Trevor

Insights

you can find this Essential Alpine Skills Course, along with others that Andrew provides, on his website.
Skills learnt on the course ranged from clothing and equipment selection, emergency shelters, snow craft, route selection, navigation, weather assessment, group management, hypothermia prevention and leave no trace skills and ethics.

Other useful skills learnt covered avalanche awareness. Despite Australia being relatively flat when compared to other countries, the alpine regions do encounter avalanches.

melting snow for water — Melting snow for water

Make sure you check various weather forecast sites before you set off – Bureau of Meteorology and Mountain Forecast.
Check out Andrew’s book ‘Summit 8000’ for more inspirational stories of Andrew’s 14 x 8,000er summits https://www.andrewlockadventures.com/.
Read more of our posts about adventures in the Kosciuszko region here.

Kosciuszko summit with Andrew Lock — On the summit of Kosciuszko with Andrew Lock – the inspiration for Project Base8000!

A well-earned Kosciuszko beer at the end!

Tromso, Norway: Above the Arctic Circle

Published February 2019 by Trevor. Updated February 2021.

In this post:

Northern Lights
Dog Sledding with Alaskan Huskies
Snowshoe Trekking
Insights

Tromso, being above the Arctic Circle, is often referred to as ‘Paris of the North’ due to its lively atmosphere. Tromso is the world’s most northern university town and the largest city in the Nordic countries north of the Arctic Circle. The city lies between the sharp craggy peaks of the Lyngen Alps and combines wild scenery with urban life.

Tromso - a winter wonderland — Tromso from the top of the cable car – a winter wonderland!

Arctic GPS — GPS – Very far North above the Arctic Circle

Northern Lights

It’s a common myth that being above the Arctic Circle, you chase the Northern Lights – not true! The Northern Lights are always there, especially in winter, but you need a dark and clear cloudless night to see them. What I didn’t know, is all those lovely photos you see are are in actual fact viewed through an SLR camera with a long exposure and not with the naked eye. Lucky for us, we had one! Apparently, if you also have an iPhone, there is an App for that as well. Anyway, I digress. The greatest chance and frequency to view the Northern lights in winter is between the hours of 6pm-2am.

Patience and dedication pays off … lots of patience and dedication! The Northern Lights might be visible only for a few minutes or most of the evening. They may be faint or very bright, they even may be dancing with green colours or even pink depending on the level of solar activity and how clear the sky is. What is never guaranteed however is that you will get to see them on any given night. The best advice is to have a few spare days up your sleeve just in case – and take lots of warm clothes including boots, with temperatures in winter often dropping down to minus 19 degrees C or lower at night depending on the location.

Dog Sledding with Alaskan Huskies

The notes read, ‘being above the Arctic Circle you will enjoy the arctic coastal nature with a fantastic view over Tromso’. No mention that there would be near whiteout conditions with snow blowing in your face from every conceivable angle.

After meeting our driver and team of 12 Alaskan Huskies and much barking, we set off on the exhilarating ride ahead. Tucked under a warm rug on the sled certainly helped to keep warm.

Dog sledding — Our driver and yours truly – off we go!

Having come straight from an Australian summer, it was also a test of human endurance, but not the dogs though. In fact, Alaskan Huskies are bred for their endurance and stamina are renowned for their work ethic in a harsh, windswept snow environment.

They are trained from a young age to be sociable and interact with humans. Consuming some 6,000-8,000 calories a day when working, their diet mostly consists of high protein foods like salmon.

There is a strong interaction between the driver of the sled and the lead dogs, who are the most experienced and understand commands from the driver – in Norwegian of course. Working as a team, they will sense when the driver is not assisting with the sled and slow down or stop right in their tracks.

Snowshoe Trekking

Above the Arctic Circle, this day is was what we call in the business, a ‘bluebird day’. Blessed with perfect weather in twilight conditions, we set off mid morning for a 3 hour hike and explored the surrounding wilderness area situated on Kvaløya Island.

Views back to Tromso on the snow shoeing trail

With views back over Tromso and towards the Fiords, snow crunching below our feet, it was a majestic day.

Snow shoeing — Testing out our mountain winter gear while snow shoeing

Onwards and upwards!

Trevor

Insights

Tromso, being above the Arctic Circle, is situated right in the centre of the Northern Lights zone and is therefore among the best places on earth to observe this phenomenon.
Download the Aurora Forecast app to track the chances of viewing in real time.

Other attractions/activities to do in Tromso:

Arctic Cathedral
Polar Museum
Tromso Gondola lift (Fjellheisen)
Polaria Arctic Aquarium
Mack Brewery
Visittromso.no has further information.
See Authentic Scandinavia for all activities.

Pyrenees: Winter Expedition Skills Course

Published February 2019 by Trevor. Updated October 2021.

In this post:

Introduction

Undertaking a winter expedition skills course in the Pyrenees can throw up the odd surprise. This one proved no exception.

Snow shoe trail — Setting off on the trail – snow shoes on

From climbing, snowshoeing, abseiling, glacier travel, crevasse rescue, avalanche assessment and response, self arrest, knots, rope work, mountain hut life and jumaring to digging a snow hole. Except for a summit of the highest mountain in the Spanish Pyrenees, Pico Aneto, we did it.

Self arresting — Learning to self arrest – boots up!

The weather forecast was looking reasonable. With our expert guides, we all set off for what was to prove an experience of our life. Anticipating around 3 hours to snow shoe up to the Refugio Renclusa (2,140m) from where we left our van, we took seven hours.

Finishing in the darkness, we fell into our hut somewhat weather beaten, but with spirits intact. Along with freezing conditions, snow blowing from every conceivable angle you could imagine and a few ‘motivating’ words to the group – this all set the tone for the rest of the trip.

Heading into safety at Refugio La Reclusa

Expedition Life

Mimicking expedition life, each of us carried around 15-18kg. This included all of our equipment and food required for the next five days on the mountain. It made for heavy going at times in breaking ground through the deep snow pack. Taking in turns to cook the meals in teams – well let’s just say the porridge was often of a standard found on most expeditions. That’s all I’m going to say about the cooking!

I don’t know about you, but being confined to a hut for a couple of days can drive people crazy. Especially very active ones. So, when our very experienced guides suggested we head outside in a blizzard in minus 23deg C temperatures for a short roped up walk, well, we all followed but with some trepidation. After all, we had all signed up for a winter expedition skills course – so bring it on.

Blizzard — Battling the blizzard (Photo: 360 Expeditions)

Over the next few days we practiced building snow anchors for varied terrain conditions, self arresting with an ice axe, digging a snow cave, climbing and abseiling skills and learning how to spot an avalanche risk area. As if to prove a point, there were avalanches setting off all around us. This was not surprising given the fact that overnight we had something like 2-3m of snow and lots of wind.

Pico Aneto

Teaching us the basics of expedition life and the skills gained, we had then planned to climb up to the summit of Pico Aneto. Pico Aneto is the highest mountain in the Pyrenees and Aragon, and Spain’s third-highest mountain, reaching a height of 3,404m.

Snowy gear — The snow got in everywhere – now where are my snow shoes?

Well, that was the plan until mother nature intervened again. With conditions never experienced before in these parts even by local standards, the forecast at the summit was 120 km/h winds and minus 42deg C. Wise heads prevailed and we decided along with our guides to exit stage right and head back down to the relatively safety of where we had left our van. Relative being the operative word as first of all we had to locate the van, then dig it out from the snow drift that it was buried under.

Now, we didn’t know it at the time, but the people in charge of the Refugio had been out filming this crazy international crew of ours. The footage even made it onto the Spanish TV news much to the delight of the local Spanish police that we bumped into, who knew more about us then we of them.

We capped off a great week by honing up on our rock climbing skills and crevasse rescue techniques on some local crags near Luchon, France. We may have gone away not knowing each other, but we all came back as friends and learnt a lot about our capabilities and working as a team.

Onwards and upwards!

Trevor

Crevasse rescue – demonstrating how it’s done properly

Insights

There are numerous companies or guides offering winter skills expedition courses. In the Pyrenees, we recommend 360 Expeditions based in Luchon, France
Guides – listen and adhere to your guide’s instructions, they are the experts and know more than you for a reason.

Always check the mountain weather forecast before heading out e.g. Mountain Forecast – Pico Aneto.
Go on a winter skills course with an open mind and willingness to learn. You’ll gain more confidence in the mountains for your next trekking or mountaineering expedition.

Sun on the mountains — A brief moment of sunshine in the Pyrenees

Australia: Snow Climbing on Mt Kosciuszko

Published June 2018 by Trevor. Updated April 2021.

In this post:

Introduction

In preparation for our climb of Mera Peak (6,476m/21,247ft) in the Himalayas, we decided to undertake a snow climbing course on Mt Kosciuszko. Mt Kosciuszko is the highest point in Australia at 2,228m/7,310ft.

Trevor and snow climbing guide — Trevor and our guide from K7 Adventures, with a great view looking towards the east coast

Mt Kosciuszko

Officially, Mt Kosciuszko is the traditional ‘Seventh / 7th Summit’. Whilst lower than Puncak Jaya/Carstenz Pyramid in West Papua, Mt Kosciuszko is still on the essential ‘Seven Summits’ list for the majority of mountaineers.

Objective

Our objective this day was to head up and out the back of the Thredbo ski fields, snow shoes in hand, well beyond the maddening ski crowds. We were met by blue skies, no wind, lots of snow and ice and the odd bunny rabbit for company. At times, I’m sure the rabbits must have thought someone is in the wrong place – and I know it wasn’t only the rabbits thinking that!

Sorting out the ropes to get ready for our climb

Skills Test

This was a test of our climbing and self arrest skills, with ice axe, crampons, ropes and harness – together with our clothing choices. Note to oneself, wear warmer socks next time.

I must say, our guide for the day had a lot of patience! Being our first time, it took awhile to master all the knots. Once harnessed up though, it was up and atom. First, ascending with an ice axe, front pointing with crampons. Then abseiling down with gravity taking hold on the way down.

Self arresting was interesting and while easy on the gently angled snow slope, would be more challenging if you had ice to contend with. With the snow melting in the afternoon sun and with dusk approaching, it was time to snow shoe back home with all of our gear in tow.

Abseiling down - view from the top — Abseiling down – view from the top

All up, it was a very useful day out practicing our snow climbing skills in a wonderful winter playground in the Australian Alps.

Onwards and upwards!

Trevor

Insights

Stay warm, adhering to the clothing layer system and take plenty of water.
The winter season used to extend from mid-May until mid-October. However rising sea temperatures have meant shorter winters with a diminished snow pack.
If you are planning to climb Mt Kosciuszko between June and September, expect cold weather and from time to time blizzards that may last for several days. These blizzards arise from strong winds from the Southern Ocean, hence the snow in Australia having a high moisture content.

The view to the top - its steeper than it looks! — The view to the top – its steeper than it looks!

There is a National Park entry fee – $AUD27. Purchase at the NPWS Jindabyne Visitor’s Centre or the Vehicle Entry Stations on the Alpine Way and Kosciuszko Road.
If driving up from Jindabyne to Thredbo, make sure you leave early and allow extra time. It’s not uncommon for early traffic jams to build especially during the winter ski season and the car parking gets full pretty quickly.

Always check the snow and road conditions. It’s not uncommon for roads to be closed during the winter season.
Carry snow chains in winter (check the road signs).
Check the local weather and mountain forecasts before you go – Bureau of Meteorology Weather Alpine Forecast including the forecast for Thredbo and the Mountain forecast for Mount Kosciuszko
Read more of our posts about adventures in the Kosciuszko region here.

New Zealand: Tongariro Alpine Winter Crossing

Published December 2017 by Trevor. Updated September 2021.

The Tongariro Alpine winter Crossing with its amazing views is awe-inspiring. So, after having hiked it in summer, it was time to try it over winter.

Often described as one of New Zealand’s greatest day hikes, the Tongariro Alpine Crossing can be a challenging journey across a remarkable volcanic landscape. Even more so in winter.

The snow and skyline provide for some spectacular shots

For safety reasons, we would recommend taking a guide during the winter months. The Tongariro Alpine Crossing is covered with snow and ice and the trail can often be hard to navigate. Plus, conditions can change very quickly leading to white out conditions.

Get your gear on – ice axe, crampons (depending on snow and ice levels) and helmet

The crossing from end-to-end is 19km, so would recommend an early start. It can also be a bit of a long hot slog once the snow conditions deteriorate, especially on a sunny day.

It’s easy to overheat on the uphill climb on a sunny day

After the Ketetahi hut, there is a lengthy descent back to the Ketetahi Car Park (end of the crossing).

Prepare to glissade some sections – with expert guidance!

Onwards and upwards!

Trevor

Insights

You can do this self guided if experienced, ensuring you have the right equipment for snow and ice conditions eg. hiking boots, warm jacket, waterproof trousers, backpack, crampons, ice axe and helmet (included for free if you book a guided crossing).

Taking the right gear is essential – hiking poles are also helpful when not using an ice axe

Beware of any volcanic activity on the mountain

Take at least 2 litres of water and food or snacks as there is no place on the crossing where you can obtain it – otherwise it will be a very long 19km to your pickup.

Dramatic views of Mt Ngauruhoe, aka Mt Doom in Lord of the Rings

It takes around 8-9 hours to undertake the winter crossing, depending on conditions – this compares to around 6-7 hours in summer.
A good level of fitness is recommended.

If you want to go with a guided group with equipment supplied in the price, we recommend adventureoutdoors.co.nz or adrift.co.nz.

Great photo opportunities which are quite different to the summer crossing

Avoid wearing sports shoes and cotton clothes.

The weather is ever changeable, so having the right gear is crucial

Ensure you have arranged transport pick up at the end of the crossing – otherwise it’s a long walk home.