Multi-Day Hikes

Malaysian Borneo: Mt Kinabalu, A New Years surprise

Published June 2017 by Trevor. Updated February 2021.

We could see Mt Kinabalu in the distance from our hotel. With New Years fast approaching and with two angsty teenage children in tow, it was a choice between party on the beach, or, climbing that mountain. Hmmmmm – no second guesses which one my two teenagers wanted to choose! Little did we know at the time, preparation was everything – and altitude something else.

A couple of days before, we went shopping at the Kota Kinabalu (KK) bustling night markets in town. As you’ve probably gathered, this was a spur of the moment decision and so our purchases of essential gear were somewhat limited – but so was our budget. To make this situation even worse, the locals just shrugged this off as ‘just a walk in the park’. Never listen to the locals!!

The ascent

Mt Kinabalu (4,095m) is not for the faint hearted. It was a 5:00AM wake up call for us on the day beginning the hike. We packed our ‘very’ limited gear, snacks (chocolate and the occasional muesli bar), and water, in our market-bought backpacks and began the bus trip from our hotel to Kinabalu Park Headquarters.

From there, we transferred to Timpohon gate (1,866m and 5.5km from the entrance to the Headquarters) and began the five-hour ascent* up to Laban Rata (3,272m) for our overnight stay.

Unfortunately, I spent the last two hours of the long ascent by myself as my two teenagers had suddenly decided that I was too slow for them. Luckily, I had all the snacks with me!. No matter how fit you are, or age, the altitude can be your biggest obstacle when it comes to getting up that hill.

Once I reached Laban Rata, I located my two teenagers, who were sprawled out on a rock, waving, and encouraging (read laughing) me as I came up the final bend. That evening, we settled in for a brief sleep before another early wake up, this time 2:00AM, to begin our hike up the summit.

The climb

With the treacherous weather and ponchos in hand, off we set. The first part of the climb, around 45-60 minutes was quite easy – up a set of long stairs.

Over the next couple of hours, we hauled ourselves up the slippery granite rocks using a sturdy rope and proceeded to a checkpoint. Not long after that, we steadily walked/scrambled to the summit of Low’s Peak. We rewarded ourselves with a well-deserved chocolate bar just in time for the sunrise.

Arriving back at the hotel that evening, I decided to jump in the pool for recovery. I couldn’t move as my muscles ached all over. I was contemplating what I had just done, when a pool attendant happened to pass by. He remarked with a wry smile, ‘ah, you climbed the mountain’. Yes, indeed I did.

Little did I know at the time, but this was the start of many adventures into the world of trekking at altitude.

*There’s a s*** load of stairs!

Onwards and Upwards

Trevor

Insights

Don’t underestimate the effort required to do the hike/climb.
While no special gear is required, sturdy hiking shoes or boots are recommended. Along with a head torch, also pack a warm jacket. You will be climbing in the dark and it gets very cold at the top before the sun rises
Hiking or climbing at altitude should not be taken lightly. See our High Altitude Trekking Tips
Enjoy the views. On a clear night, you can see down below to KK in the distance
If it’s raining when you start your climb from Laban Rata, be careful on the granite as it can get very slippery
Take a few snacks and lots of water. You can also purchase these at Laban Rata Hut, though will more expensive

Chile and Argentina: Great Patagonian Traverse – Glaciers and more glaciers, muchos gracias

Published April 2017 by Trevor. Updated February 2021.

In this post:

Why Patagonia?

2016 was fast approaching on the horizon and a significant milestone for my partner’s birthday looming. So we went researching around for another trekking adventure – and discovered the Great Patagonian Traverse.

Perito Moreno Glacier 80m high, 4km wide

The opening of a new route linking Chile and Argentina offered a traverse of untouched national parks, from the Southern Ice cap to the towers of Torres del Paine. And everything in between.

We have travelled the length and breadth of South America numerous times, and thoroughly enjoyed the people, culture and food (see our post on Colombia for example). So, looking for something different, we picked out this relatively new 15 day trip to enjoy (Great Patagonian Traverse with World Expeditions) – with a mix of estancia homestay and refugios for accommodation.

Where to begin?

We joined the trip in Balmaceda, Chile where it was a chilly 8 degrees celsius – and this was summer. By comparison, it was a balmy 26 degrees celsius in Santiago when we left earlier in the morning, but we were heading south after all – way south.

We had signed up for this supported hike with a small group of eight people – two Italians, one Kiwi and the rest Aussies. The opportunity provided us with a traverse of Patagonia, travelling its length from Coyhaique in the North to Puerto Natales in the South, via Chile and Argentina. The majority was on foot, some by bus, and other by boat via some of the most captivating and untouched national parks in the region.

The journey

Our journey took us via Villa O’Higgins, before joining a boat to cross Lago O’Higgins, with the Southern Patagonian ice field in our midst – the world’s second largest contiguous extrapolar ice field. At about 16,800 sq km, it is second only to southeastern Alaska’s approximately 25,000 sq km St. Elias-Kluane-Malaspina-Eastern Chugach Ice Field.

A recently opened pass between the shores of Lago O’Higgins in Chile and Laguna del Desierto in Argentina offered a unique way to continue the traverse and offered a side to Patagonia rarely seen by other trekkers.

Of course, no trip to Patagonia would be complete without trekking in the Paine National Park.

There we completed the ‘W’ trek and enjoyed forays to the Grey Glacier, up the French Valley and the Ascension Valley before finally ascending to the base of Torres del Paine for one of the most unforgettable mountain views in the world – it’s a long slog of around 1,000m (3,280ft) ascent and decent (7-8 hours return) but well worth it in the end.

Other highlights of the trip included spending New Year’s eve in the quaint hiking and climbing village of El Chalten, Argentina.

Like the locals, we partied hard into the early morning and during the ‘fog’ of alcohol and great company, forgot we had a 5-6 hour hike ahead of us the next day. After a not so early start, lots of water was consumed to rehydrate, suffice to say it was slow going.

Other highlights

A cruise on Lago O’Higgins was another highlight. After getting up close and personal to an iceberg or three that had broken away from the icefield, a couple of the boat crew went off in a Zodiac to chip away some ice. Now what to do with the ice? The only thing you could do of course. Put it in a glass of whiskey – I’m sure that enhanced the age of it somewhat.

Trekking in Patagonia was certainly an experience to remember.

Onwards and upwards!

Trevor

Insights

Pack gaiters and hiking poles. This is especially so for the muddy section that you will hike on foot across the border of Chile into Argentina (around 15km).

Ensure you’ve had your Chile exit stamped in your passport at the small shed just outside Candelario Mancilla.

Learn some Spanish. Don’t make the mistake of saying ‘si’ to everything the Spanish speaking border official says. One person did and was just about to receive an exit stamp instead of an entry one!

At the conclusion of the trip, it’s definitely worthwhile spending an extra day or two in Punta Arenas, gateway to the Antarctic.

Watch out for the local gauchos herding their flock of sheep and guanacos.

Best time to go trekking in Patagonia is January – February. The weather is more stable and you have clear sunny days.

New Zealand: Hiking the Routeburn Track, Another Great Walk

Published April 2017 by Trevor. Updated January 2020.

In this post:

Why Routeburn?
When to go
About the Routeburn Track
Insights

Why Routeburn?

In preparation for our forthcoming trek to Everest Base Camp, we decided to undertake the Routeburn Track guided by Ultimate Hikes. As my daughter was tagging along, she had demanded (sorry, “requested”) some form of luxury – a bed, hot showers and a three-course meal every night (freeze-dried food was out of the question). Unfortunately for her, she couldn’t get out of carrying a backpack though. At the end, she remarked, “we got fed better than any school camps I’ve been on”. For the price, I would certainly hope so.

When to go

We chose the month of February as this represented the best weather window given previous weather forecasts. Fortunately we weren’t wrong as sunny days followed us everyday, which allowed us to hike in just t-shirts.

We flew in from Wellington to Queenstown on the South Island the night before. Once at the briefing centre, we introduced ourselves to our fellow 35 hikers. The group comprised mainly Aussies, a few Americans and one Kiwi – my partner.

About the Routeburn Track

We found the Routeburn Track was certainly an epic alpine walk with stunning vistas of sweeping valleys below and majestic peaks above. As we hiked up and along the ridge line on day two, we were crossed two National Parks – Fiordland and Mt Aspiring. Here, we had a bird’s eye view (or kea eye view!) of the Darran Mountains across the Hollyford Valley. This slices through Fiordland to the distant Tasman Sea at Martin’s Bay.

Routeburn Valley with lodge in the foreground

In total, the Routeburn Track is a 3 day hike spanning 32km (19.8mi). The variety of landscapes will astound you: mountainous peaks; sheer rock faces; alpine basins; pristine lakes; cascading waterfalls, depending on the rain; luxuriant forest; turquoise rivers and million dollar views around every corner.

Onwards and upwards!

Trevor

Insights

The generator running the electricity turns off around 10pm, coming back on at 6am. So take a head torch if you want to read.
Don’t worry about buying or hiring any extra gear if you decide to go with Ultimate Hikes (ultimatehikes.co.nz). They will supply you with a back pack, waterproof pack liner, rain jacket, sleep sheet and snacks.

Wear sturdy boots or trail shoes (no joggers) as the trail can be very rocky and steep in parts.
Watch out for gorgeous sunsets over the mountains.

One of the lodges on the Ultimate Hikes guided hike

Each day ends at an ecolodge tucked into the wilderness, where scones, jam and cream await.
The highest point on the Routeburn Track is the Harris Saddle, 1,255m (4,117ft).
Ultimate Hikes leave from Queenstown or Te Anau.

Swing bridge on the Routeburn Track — Swing bridge on the trail

Compare the Milford and Routeburn Tracks to help you decide which one to do (or do both!).
You can undertake the hike in both directions, self-guided via Department of Conservation or guided, which is one way via Ultimate Hikes.

Conditions can change quickly on the alpine trail

For Routeburn Track weather forecasts, go to Metservice NZ. Note, the forecast is only accurate for the current and next 2-3 days. The weather is unpredictable beyond that point given the mountains.

New Zealand: Hiking the Milford Track – One of the Great Walks, with our lucky raincoats

Published April 2017 by Trevor. Updated January 2020.

In this post:

Why the Milford Track?
Setting up for success
Milford Track Overview
About the track and huts
Milford Track vs Routeburn Track?
Lucky Raincoats
Insights

Why the Milford Track?

With the new year fast approaching, we decided to book one of the famous great walks of New Zealand – the Milford Track.

Early new years day we arrived into Queenstown (South Island). Both local and international visitors were still nursing off their hangovers from the evening before.

Start of the Milford Track - swing bridge near Glade Lodge — Swing bridge near Glade Lodge

If you’ve ever lined up in the usually long queue outside the infamous ‘Fergburger’ (very popular gourmet hamburger joint), you will know what I mean. If you haven’t, and you’re planning on visiting Queenstown, then do it. But watch out for those pesky seagulls along the waterfront – they always seem to know when there’s a free feed around.

At the track briefing the night before, we formally introduced ourselves to our fellow hikers – all 49 of us. The group comprised mostly Americans and Aussies with a couple of Kiwis thrown in for good measure. One of whom was 79 years old and in remarkable great shape for his age.

Setting up for success

One of the key successes and enjoyment of any adventure is how you get along with your fellow hikers and guides (plus the local wildlife and weather). As it turned out, it was a fantastic group of people ranging in all ages. From pre University students tagging along with their parents (their last hoorah before Uni life), through to people just wanting to get away from it all and experience the great NZ wilderness and all it has to offer.

View from the Milford Track trail — View from the trail

Having undertaken numerous hikes in New Zealand, the Milford Track was always on our list to do. Besides, New Zealand has no poisonous snakes or huge spiders – yay.

The planned hike was partly in our preparation for heading back to the Himalayas in April and partly, as it’s defined as one of the Great Walks of New Zealand. We followed the same successful training pattern back in 2013 for the EBC 60th Anniversary Trek by hiking the Routeburn Track. The Milford Track certainly lived up to its reputation.

Waterfalls, streams and rivers on the Milford Track — Waterfalls, streams and rivers abound

Milford Track Overview

So, on the 2nd of January, with back packs packed and rain gear stowed (the Milford Track is notorious for experiencing some of the highest rainfalls in NZ – sometimes up to a metre/36 inches in one day), we set off from Queenstown for a 3 hour scenic bus ride down to Te Anau. Then it was another 30-40 minutes to Te Anau Downs, where you catch the ferry across the lake to Glade Wharf.

The day before in Queenstown was drizzly so given the time of the year, it was fully expected it would rain for the entire trip. When I mean rain, I mean anywhere between 30–100mm as we were headed into the Fiordland National Park, one of the wettest National Parks in the world. Then suddenly out came the sun and that’s where it stayed for most of the whole 5 days – our lucky rain coats came to the fore (more on that later).

About the track and huts

Both the Milford track and huts are well maintained by DOC (Department of Conservation), with the huts having a DOC ranger on site only during the official summer hiking season of October-May. There are also private lodges maintained by Ultimate Hikes for their hiking groups, which are a standard above the DOC huts. Outside of the hiking season, hiking the track is not recommended as facilities in the DOC huts are greatly reduced and there are additional safety hazards to consider such as snow and ice, and potential avalanches.

Overall, the Milford Track is a 4-5 day moderate hike. The only hard day is on day 3, with a zig zag/switchback up and over the McKinnon Pass (1,101m/3,612ft). When you reach the top of the pass, the McKinnon memorial stands before you. On a clear day, you get a nice view back down the valley and to the DOC hut or lodge where you’ve just hiked up from.

Milford Track vs Routeburn Track?

A common question most people ask is “how does the Milford Track compare to the Routeburn Track?”. Well to be fair, that largely depends on what you’re after and how much time you have. Valley views vs Alpine? Waterfalls – the fifth highest in the world. Short on time? Distance to be hiked? You can read our comparison of the two walks here.

Lucky Raincoats

Oh, and about those lucky raincoats. We call them lucky as ever since we bought them, the sun has always shone and so have stayed in our pack. With a reputation for torrential rain, the Milford Track was the ultimate test – may the long reign continue.

Onwards and upwards!

Trevor

Insights

You can do this hike either guided or self supported. Both cost, standard of the accommodation facilities and how much gear you need to carry are vastly different.
Book early as both the Milford and Routeburn tracks only have a certain number of hikers permitted each day and the season is usually well booked out in advance.

Water is readily available along the track.

Make sure you take your wet weather gear with you as you’re hiking in the mountains. The weather can be so unpredictable even at the best of times.

Hiking poles can be handy, especially on the long descent after McKinnon Pass.

On the Milford Track, watch out for close encounters with the native birdlife: the South Island Robin; cheeky Kea (watch out for your boots); Weka; Fantail; Bellbird. Even Kiwi have been sighted.

The wall of shame - boots that didn't make it — The wall of shame – boots that didn’t make it

Look out for the boots that never made it, located in Mitre Lodge at the end of the trip.
The Milford Track is classed as a moderate hike. If you are fit, active and healthy, any age can undertake the hike.
Prepare yourself for 6-8 hour days, carrying around a 8kg pack (will weigh more if you have to carry food).
Compare the Milford and Routeburn Tracks to help you decide which one to do (or do both!).
For further information, check out ultimatehikes.co.nz (guided) or Department of Conservation (unguided).
You can also check this route guide and map on Fatmap.