Hiking

USA: Tolmie Peak, Mt Rainier National Park

Published December 2017 by Trevor. Updated February 2021.

Planning on visiting Seattle, we wanted to climb Mt. Rainier (4,392m/14,410 ft). As all bookings with established climbing guides were booked out well in advance, the next best thing was to try and see it up close and personal. So, with a limited amount of time, the advice was to hike up to Tolmie Peak to an old fire lookout, where the views of Mt. Rainier are literally ‘in your face’. That’s of course provided there is no smoke from wildfires – more on that later.

Getting there

Most people set off from the parking area at Mowich Lake campground, heading round the west side of Mowich Lake. But you can also park at the trailhead before on the left side of the road, near Mowich Lake – saves you around 1.6km (1 mile). Follow the trail through open lowland forest along the west side of the lake, gaining elevation gradually, and then on increasingly steep grade as you move away from the lake up to tiny Ipsut Pass approximately 3.2km (2 miles) from the trailhead. This pass is part of the Wonderland Trail – look down the other side of it to get an idea of how steep sections of this iconic trail are.

Trail through the forest — The trail winds through forested areas

If you want views of Mt. Rainier, continue past the lake for the final uphill grind. It’s a steep 1.6km (1 mile) to Tolmie Peak and the lookout.

Looking south, Mt. Rainier is huge from this vantage point, and Eunice Lake glittering at the bottom of Tolmie Peak makes for a fantastic photo from here. We were also lucky on the day to bump into a ranger who let us into the fire lookout – a lot of history here and nice spot to stop, contemplate life and have a snack.

Eunice Lake and Mt Rainier — Mt Rainier and Eunice Lake from Tolmie Peak on a good day. Photo: skibum

Oh, yes – I nearly forgot. The wildfires, emanating both from British Columbia and now Oregon blew in quite a lot of smoke which limited our views of Mt Rainier, but was still a great hike up to Tolmie Peak.

Hazy view Eunice Lake Mt Rainier — Hazy and smoky view overlooking Eunice Lake towards Mt Rainier on a not-so-good day

Onwards and upwards.

Trevor

Insights

If driving from Seattle, it’s around 2 hours one way to the Tolmie Peak trail head at Mowich Lake. Take Mowich Lake Road, which is beyond the Carbon River Gorge bridge, right outside of the town of Carbonado. Turn right onto Mowich Lake Road and follow it for about 27km (17 miles) to its end. Note that this road is loose gravel, and can be rough in places with lots of pot holes. You could consider driving an SUV, though we drove a normal sedan – just take it slowly. The trailhead is on the left side of the road, near Mowich Lake.

The trail is listed as 12km (7.5 miles) roundtrip. There is no reason to drive all the way to Mowich Lake Campground – unless you want to of course. Parking at the Tolmie Peak trailhead, on the west side of Mowich Lake will save you about 1.6km (1 mile) each way. All up around 3.5 hours return.

The trail itself is well sign posted. Follow the signs towards Ipsut Pass, turning left and descend 30-60m (100-200 ft) just before you reach the pass. From here it is mostly uphill, but the grade isn’t too bad. From here you will catch your first views of the lookout tower. Continue West along the lake’s edge and ascend the ridgeline Northwest of Eunice Lake until you reach the lookout tower.
Elevation gain is around 455m (1,492 ft).

A National Park Pass is required to access hiking trails in the park – cash only.
We undertook this hike towards the end of summer in August. In late autumn/early winter I imagine it would be difficult because of snow.

Summit ridgeline — The summit ridgeline – lookout tower on the left

New Zealand: Tongariro Alpine Winter Crossing

Published December 2017 by Trevor. Updated September 2021.

The Tongariro Alpine winter Crossing with its amazing views is awe-inspiring. So, after having hiked it in summer, it was time to try it over winter.

Often described as one of New Zealand’s greatest day hikes, the Tongariro Alpine Crossing can be a challenging journey across a remarkable volcanic landscape. Even more so in winter.

The snow and skyline provide for some spectacular shots

For safety reasons, we would recommend taking a guide during the winter months. The Tongariro Alpine Crossing is covered with snow and ice and the trail can often be hard to navigate. Plus, conditions can change very quickly leading to white out conditions.

Get your gear on – ice axe, crampons (depending on snow and ice levels) and helmet

The crossing from end-to-end is 19km, so would recommend an early start. It can also be a bit of a long hot slog once the snow conditions deteriorate, especially on a sunny day.

It’s easy to overheat on the uphill climb on a sunny day

After the Ketetahi hut, there is a lengthy descent back to the Ketetahi Car Park (end of the crossing).

Prepare to glissade some sections – with expert guidance!

Onwards and upwards!

Trevor

Insights

You can do this self guided if experienced, ensuring you have the right equipment for snow and ice conditions eg. hiking boots, warm jacket, waterproof trousers, backpack, crampons, ice axe and helmet (included for free if you book a guided crossing).

Taking the right gear is essential – hiking poles are also helpful when not using an ice axe

Beware of any volcanic activity on the mountain

Take at least 2 litres of water and food or snacks as there is no place on the crossing where you can obtain it – otherwise it will be a very long 19km to your pickup.

Dramatic views of Mt Ngauruhoe, aka Mt Doom in Lord of the Rings

It takes around 8-9 hours to undertake the winter crossing, depending on conditions – this compares to around 6-7 hours in summer.
A good level of fitness is recommended.

If you want to go with a guided group with equipment supplied in the price, we recommend adventureoutdoors.co.nz or adrift.co.nz.

Great photo opportunities which are quite different to the summer crossing

Avoid wearing sports shoes and cotton clothes.

The weather is ever changeable, so having the right gear is crucial

Ensure you have arranged transport pick up at the end of the crossing – otherwise it’s a long walk home.

Beautiful 360 views looking back towards Mt Ngauruhoe

Canada: High Note Trail, Whistler

Published December 2017 by Trevor. Updated February 2021.

Strike a High Note on this amazing trail in Whistler – wildfire smoke aside. On this particular September day, smoke from the devastating wildfires emanating from parts of B.C. lingered in the valley below.

Somewhat smokey view out to a Cheakamus Lake

While this affected visibility up top, it still didn’t detract from some great scenic views of Cheakamus Lake in Garibaldi Provincial Park, the odd Marmot sighting, and gondola ride from Whistler village.

This intermediate trail requires that you take the Whistler Gondola and Peak Chairlift to the trailhead, which begins at the top of Whistler Mountain.

The views were breathtaking as soon as you board the gondola for the High Note Trail. The Peak Express chairlift opens at 11am, although it can open earlier in peak season and you can ride both ways (i.e. you can hike the loop clockwise).

The trail starts from the top of Whistler Mountain and wraps around, offering up incredible, mountaintop views before descending through the alpine area back to the Whistler Gondola.

The track also crosses rocky alpine areas

One of the recommendations was to undertake the High Note Trail in an anti-clockwise direction. The views were better plus the terrain easier to navigate around with clear sign post markings along the trail. There were a couple of tricky sections to clamber over with a rope chain which provided for sturdier footings.

The trail circles back towards the top of Whistler Chairlift

Onwards and upwards!

Trevor

Insights

Whistler Village (base) is situated at 650m (2,100 ft).
Take the Peak Express Gondola.

A variety of views awaits you around the circuit trail

The High Note Trail takes around 3 1/2 – 4 hours to complete, 9.5km with an elevation gain of around 300m – start at the base of Whistler Village.
The Peak Express chairlift has a height restriction and does not allow riders under 1m (40″), including any small children in carriers.

Beware that there are some tricky parts of the trail, but if you take it slow and watch your footing you should be fine.
Check the weather forecast before heading up. A useful app to download is the official Whistler Blackcomb Live App, which provides you with updated information on hiking trails, weather and lift status.
For more stories on Canada read our posts on Banff National Park and the Cariboo Chilcotin Coast Mountains.

Australia: 3 Capes Track, Tasmania

Published November 2017 by Trevor. Updated October 2021.

Having completed a very intense few weeks in the gym training for another expedition, it was with some trepidation that we flew down to Hobart from Sydney. Trepidation in the sense of not knowing too much about the 3 Capes Track, as it only recently opened back in December, 2015. Trepidation, in the sense of hiking with 24 other people from our group, of which we were the newbies, plus carrying 20kg in my pack – at least we weren’t going to starve on the first night. However, we needn’t have worried.

Fresh off the boat and walking to the start of the track

Following a 1 1/2 hour bus drive down to Port Arthur, we were transported by boat across to Denmans Cove to begin our hike.

Southern Right Whale. Photo: Ange Anderson

Enroute, we were treated to a ‘whale show’, with southern right whales heading back down south to Antarctica for the winter.

Misty but still spectacular views of the ancient sea cliffs

For the first couple of days visibility was restricted due to sea mist/fog, but then the sun came out for a joyous last couple of days with views to die for.

Cape Pillar with Tasman Island in the background

Onwards and upwards!

Trevor

Stunning dolerite rock spires looking out over the Great Southern Ocean

Insights

Getting there and back – drive yourself or catch a scheduled bus, which you need to pre-book.
The track is 46km, and takes 3 nights/4 days to complete. You can only walk in one direction, with bookings for the huts limited on a daily basis. The track is open every day of the year – Three Capes Track
Accommodation is in well equipped eco-lodges, with a ranger on site at each location – briefings held daily at 6pm.

Kitchen with pots, pans and cooking utensils

You need to carry your own gear including sleeping bag, food and water. With regards to the latter, while drinking water is available from the kitchen in the huts, there are no other places where you can obtain water.

Steps up and down and up again to Cape Hauy

The 2 hour return track out to Cape Hauy is steep in some places. It has lots of stone steps so be prepared!

Look out for the quirky seats and resting points along the track – plus local wildlife such as wallabies or echidnas.

Remember the golden rule when in a wilderness area – pack up your garbage and pack it out.
For something different, another hike you can do in Tasmania is the Bay of Fires Walk

There’s a mix of boardwalks and more natural track

The famous Totem Pole – a challenge for rock climbers

Canada: Beware the Grizzlies – Larch Valley/Sentinel Pass, Banff National Park

Published November 2017 by Trevor. Updated February 2021.

In this post:

Introduction
Grizzly Bears
The hike
Insights

Introduction

Beware the Grizzlies! Welcome to Larch Valley/Sentinel Pass.

Spectacular – surrounded by mountains in the Valley of the 10 Peaks

Around 45 minutes out of Banff, we discovered a great hike in the Banff National Park, Alberta – Larch Valley/Sentinel Pass.

Grizzly Bears

We were all set to go, when we came upon the sign on the National Park’s Notice Board – ‘warning, there have been sightings of a mother Grizzly and her cub in the area. Strongly recommend hiking in groups of four or more people.’

Lucky for us, it was the Memorial Day holiday long weekend so teaming up with extra hikers was not a problem. Plus we carried bear spray – all reassuring of course in the event of encountering said Grizzly. Either that, or I would just proffer up a friendly ‘G’day’ and see where that led.

Beautiful colours of the glacial Moraine Lake

The hike

The hike up from the trail head of Moraine Lake is a steady up.

There’s a nice clearing at the top of the pass, which permits views of the peaks around you (the Valley of the 10 Peaks).

Panoramic view of the Valley of the 10 Peaks

The trail dips back into the larches for a bit then clears the treeline at the base of Sentinel Pass. We did the hike in early September so the larches hadn’t turned yellow as yet, but have been reassured that when they do turn in late September, it’s an awesome sight.

Minestimma Lakes, looking up towards a series of switchbacks to Sentinel Pass

In the flats before Sentinel Pass there are a couple of pretty reflective pools (called Minestimma Lakes). The switchbacks to Sentinel Pass rise around 150m (500 ft) above the lakes, with Mt. Temple rising above.

Onwards and upwards!

Trevor

View looking over the top of Sentinel Pass towards Mt. Temple

Insights

To avoid the crowds in summer/early Autumn, weekends or public holidays, ensure you get to the Moraine Lake car park by 8.30am. After this time, parking can be a ‘lottery’ as all available spots tend to fill up quickly.
The hike up to Sentinel Pass is around 12km return from the car park, 730m (2,400 ft) gain – allow between 4.5 – 6 hours return, depending on your fitness.
From the bottom of the flats or reflective pools (called Minestimma Lakes), it’s another 150m up to the top of Sentinel Pass along a series of switchbacks – allow around 45 minutes for this section. Stunning views of the Valley of the 10 Peaks and Mt. Temple from the top are awesome on a clear day.

View over the Valley of the 10 Peaks from the top of Sentinel Pass

Look out for notices on the National Parks board for sightings of Grizzly bears and follow their recommendations for safety.
And don’t forget the bear spray – using it is another whole discussion topic.
for more Canadian hiking adventures read our posts on the Cariboo Chilcotin Coast Mountains and the High Note Trail, Whistler