Great Walks

New Zealand: Routeburn or Milford Track?

Published November 2019 by Trevor. Updated December 2019.

In this post:

Landscape
Duration
Distance
Getting there
Insights

With the Great Walks season fast approaching, I thought I would do a comparison between the Routeburn Track and Milford Track. Both are located in the South Island of New Zealand, with the closest towns being Queenstown or Te Anau.

It largely depends on what you’re after and how much time you have. The tracks vary in landscape, duration and distance.

Landscape

The Milford Track is located in Fiordland National Park. You walk through dramatic glacial valleys and past many waterfalls, with one being the fifth highest in the world. While you cross over one pass, which is a steady climb, we still found the overall walk much easier than the Routeburn.

The Routeburn traverses both Mount Aspiring and Fiordland National Parks. It is much more of an alpine experience. The descents and ascents on the Routeburn can be tough but you gain some amazing views of the Hollyford valley and Darren Mountains. On a clear day, you can see out to the Tasman Sea.

Duration

The Milford Track takes 4 days versus the Routeburn, which takes 3 days. Remember, once you book the huts you are committed to hike to the next one. First in, best dressed!

Note: Camping is not permitted on the Milford Track.

Distance

The Milford Track is 53.5km / 33.2mi. Routeburn is 32km / 19.8mi. Though it’s a shorter trek, the Routeburn is slightly harder with moderate-steep ascents and descents.

Getting there

Transport options are available from both Queenstown or Te Anau for both tracks, but make sure you book well in advance.

Lakes near the Harris Saddle – Routeburn Track

Let me know which is your favourite. For me, it’s definitely the Routeburn for the views and variety. Plus, an added bonus is that you can also hike the Routeburn Track in both directions. Whereas, the Milford Track can only be hiked one way only, albeit through the heart of Fiordland National Park to Milford Sound.

But you be the judge!

Onwards and upwards!

Trevor

Insights

The Great Walks season starts late October and ends around 30 April each year. Bookings are essential and fill up fast – see links.

You can read more in our posts on the Routeburn Track and Milford Track
Or for detailed information on each track visit the NZ Department of Conservation website for the Routeburn or Milford Track.

New Zealand: Abel Tasman Track

Published May 2018 by Trevor. Updated August 2020.

In this post:

Introduction

The Abel Tasman Track is around 60km (37mi) and is one of the Great Walks of New Zealand. It is located within the Abel Tasman National Park, on New Zealand’s South Island, extending from Marahau in the south to Wainui in the north, with many side tracks.

View out to the islands from the Abel Tasman Track

My partner’s father, who was 78yo at the time, held some historical ties to the area so it was a walk back in time – even our experienced guide, who thought he knew everything about the area learnt a new thing or two.

Trampers at start of walk — The happy trampers about to head off

Settlers homestead in Bark Bay — Sign marking the location of my partner’s family original settler’s homestead in Bark Bay

Day 1

We were picked up in Nelson, South Island and made our way by road around to Marahau where we began our Abel Tasman Track hike/tramp around to Anchorage.

Walk through native forest — Walking through the lush native forest

The first night, we stayed on a delightful catamaran moored out in the bay, where a few brave souls dived into the frigid waters, enjoying a BBQ on the deck after.

The boat we stayed on for the first night (on the right)

Day 2

We hiked up and along the crescent shaped Onatahuti beach, before meandering along a boardwalk across a tidal estuary. Our second nights accommodation was in the wonderful elegant and funky Awaroa Lodge.

Day 3

On our final day, we made our way across the huge Awaroa Inlet to Pound Gully – this is a tidal crossing so the tides dictated our timing.

Swingbridge — The only swing bridge en route

From here, the track weaved its way through some amazing virgin New Zealand forest with huge podocarp trees reaching skyward, before bursting out on to yet another golden sand beach – Waiharakeke Bay.

Golden beach — Beautiful golden beaches along the way

Up and over another headland, we saw our final destination, the beach of Totaranui stretching out in the distance.

Stony Creek — A stony creek we discovered along the way on the Abel Tasman Track

From the campground, we made our way to the pick up point for our water taxi journey back to Marahau, seeing lots of dolphins frolicking along the way.

Approaching the beach, the driver of the water taxi decided to ‘gun the engines’ onto the boat trailer. A tractor then towed us back to our bus stop – all without getting our feet wet. Only in New Zealand!

Boat on the back of the tractor — The ride back into town in the boat, on the tractor!

Onwards and upwards!

Trevor

Native ferns unfurl to provide a lovely forest canopy

Insights

The Abel Tasman Track is well sheltered. With mild weather in all seasons, it is accessible and open throughout the year.
The track is graded as easy and can be walked independently or with commercial operators with guiding, camping, lodge or boat stay options.
To walk the entire track takes anywhere from 3 to 5 days.

Boat ride at the end of the walk — Getting on the water taxi at the end of the walk

Commercial water taxi and boat operators operate on a published schedule, providing pick-up and drop-off services. Note, Totaranui is the northernmost water taxi hop on/off stop.
There are a few inlet or estuary crossings, usually undertaken at low tide. The tide times will dictate as to when you can cross and pack some Crocs or sandals.
The highest point of the Abel Tasman Track is approximately 135m (443ft).
See our other posts on Great Walks of New Zealand such as the Milford Track, Routeburn Track and Tongariro Alpine Crossing.

Walking on the beach — While most of the Abel Tasman Track was bushwalking, there were a few places to walk along the beach

New Zealand: Tongariro Alpine Winter Crossing

Published December 2017 by Trevor. Updated September 2021.

The Tongariro Alpine winter Crossing with its amazing views is awe-inspiring. So, after having hiked it in summer, it was time to try it over winter.

Often described as one of New Zealand’s greatest day hikes, the Tongariro Alpine Crossing can be a challenging journey across a remarkable volcanic landscape. Even more so in winter.

The snow and skyline provide for some spectacular shots

For safety reasons, we would recommend taking a guide during the winter months. The Tongariro Alpine Crossing is covered with snow and ice and the trail can often be hard to navigate. Plus, conditions can change very quickly leading to white out conditions.

Get your gear on – ice axe, crampons (depending on snow and ice levels) and helmet

The crossing from end-to-end is 19km, so would recommend an early start. It can also be a bit of a long hot slog once the snow conditions deteriorate, especially on a sunny day.

It’s easy to overheat on the uphill climb on a sunny day

After the Ketetahi hut, there is a lengthy descent back to the Ketetahi Car Park (end of the crossing).

Prepare to glissade some sections – with expert guidance!

Onwards and upwards!

Trevor

Insights

You can do this self guided if experienced, ensuring you have the right equipment for snow and ice conditions eg. hiking boots, warm jacket, waterproof trousers, backpack, crampons, ice axe and helmet (included for free if you book a guided crossing).

Taking the right gear is essential – hiking poles are also helpful when not using an ice axe

Beware of any volcanic activity on the mountain

Take at least 2 litres of water and food or snacks as there is no place on the crossing where you can obtain it – otherwise it will be a very long 19km to your pickup.

Dramatic views of Mt Ngauruhoe, aka Mt Doom in Lord of the Rings

It takes around 8-9 hours to undertake the winter crossing, depending on conditions – this compares to around 6-7 hours in summer.
A good level of fitness is recommended.

If you want to go with a guided group with equipment supplied in the price, we recommend adventureoutdoors.co.nz or adrift.co.nz.

Great photo opportunities which are quite different to the summer crossing

Avoid wearing sports shoes and cotton clothes.

The weather is ever changeable, so having the right gear is crucial

Ensure you have arranged transport pick up at the end of the crossing – otherwise it’s a long walk home.

Beautiful 360 views looking back towards Mt Ngauruhoe

New Zealand: Tongariro Alpine Summer Crossing – A crossing like no other

Published April 2017 by Trevor. Updated August 2020.

Described as one of New Zealand’s greatest day hikes, the Tongariro Alpine Crossing can be a challenging journey, across a remarkable volcanic landscape.

Logistics

Staying in the Tongariro National Park village, we had transport provided at either end.

Requiring a good level of fitness to complete the Tongariro Alpine Crossing hike, you need to cover the distance of around 19.4km (12mi) in 7-8 hours. This includes two challenging climbs, of around an hour each, carrying a day pack.

It’s not just a ‘stroll in the park’, but a serious hike over a mountain.

Highlights

Among the highlights are steaming vents and hot springs, old lava flows, beautiful water-filled craters and stunning views.

On clear days you can see Mount Taranaki in the west, Mount Ngauruhoe (Mt Doom), Kaimanawa Ranges, Lake Taupo and beyond.

Half way! View before going down the screen slope to the lakes

The best views are from the highest point, Red Crater, 1,886m (6,188ft). From here, the track descends steeply to Emerald Lakes and you can see across to the Blue Lake past the Central Crater. The Emerald Lakes’ brilliant colour is caused by minerals leaching from the adjoining thermal area.

Thermals can be seen steaming around the Red Crater and Emerald Lakes.

There is a short but narrow ridge you need to cross to reach Red Crater. In high winds, this can be quite tricky to navigate.

A very steep scree slope also awaits your descent to Emerald Lakes. At Ketetahi Hut, look out for the room where a volcanic rock fell through the roof during the 2012 volcanic eruptions.

After the hut, the trail winds down through scrub and native bush to the carpark

After the hut, there is a lengthy descent back to the car park at Ketetahi Car Park (end of the crossing).

Onwards and upwards!

Trevor

Insights

Plan and book ahead. The Tongariro Alpine Crossing hike is free, but it’s not a circular track, meaning you’ll need to arrange for someone to drop you off at the beginning and pick you up at the end of the track.
Transport can easily be arranged from Taupo, which serves as a great base for all sorts of North Island adventure activities, or within the Tongariro National Park.
For other transport or accommodation options, check out the Tongariro Crossing website.

Watch the weather. The weather on the Tongariro crossing can change rapidly, so be prepared to change your plans and turn back, especially when visibility is poor and there are strong winds
Check the Tongariro or National Park mountain forecasts

An easy section at the start of the track

If the Department of Conservation (DOC) advises against hiking the Crossing, heed their warnings – https://www.doc.govt.nz
The Tongariro Alpine Crossing can technically be hiked year-round. However, it’s best hiked in the summer months (December-February).
If you do want to hike the Tongariro Alpine Crossing in the winter, a guide is recommended.

Take lots of water and snacks. There isn’t anywhere to refill water bottles or buy food.

Cellphone coverage is intermittent and shouldn’t be relied upon in an emergency.

If a volcanic eruption happens, make sure you look up and see which direction the rocks are falling, then run the opposite way!

Volcanic activity on the northern slopes

New Zealand: Hiking the Routeburn Track, Another Great Walk

Published April 2017 by Trevor. Updated January 2020.

In this post:

Why Routeburn?
When to go
About the Routeburn Track
Insights

Why Routeburn?

In preparation for our forthcoming trek to Everest Base Camp, we decided to undertake the Routeburn Track guided by Ultimate Hikes. As my daughter was tagging along, she had demanded (sorry, “requested”) some form of luxury – a bed, hot showers and a three-course meal every night (freeze-dried food was out of the question). Unfortunately for her, she couldn’t get out of carrying a backpack though. At the end, she remarked, “we got fed better than any school camps I’ve been on”. For the price, I would certainly hope so.

When to go

We chose the month of February as this represented the best weather window given previous weather forecasts. Fortunately we weren’t wrong as sunny days followed us everyday, which allowed us to hike in just t-shirts.

We flew in from Wellington to Queenstown on the South Island the night before. Once at the briefing centre, we introduced ourselves to our fellow 35 hikers. The group comprised mainly Aussies, a few Americans and one Kiwi – my partner.

About the Routeburn Track

We found the Routeburn Track was certainly an epic alpine walk with stunning vistas of sweeping valleys below and majestic peaks above. As we hiked up and along the ridge line on day two, we were crossed two National Parks – Fiordland and Mt Aspiring. Here, we had a bird’s eye view (or kea eye view!) of the Darran Mountains across the Hollyford Valley. This slices through Fiordland to the distant Tasman Sea at Martin’s Bay.

Routeburn Valley with lodge in the foreground

In total, the Routeburn Track is a 3 day hike spanning 32km (19.8mi). The variety of landscapes will astound you: mountainous peaks; sheer rock faces; alpine basins; pristine lakes; cascading waterfalls, depending on the rain; luxuriant forest; turquoise rivers and million dollar views around every corner.

Onwards and upwards!

Trevor

Insights

The generator running the electricity turns off around 10pm, coming back on at 6am. So take a head torch if you want to read.
Don’t worry about buying or hiring any extra gear if you decide to go with Ultimate Hikes (ultimatehikes.co.nz). They will supply you with a back pack, waterproof pack liner, rain jacket, sleep sheet and snacks.

Wear sturdy boots or trail shoes (no joggers) as the trail can be very rocky and steep in parts.
Watch out for gorgeous sunsets over the mountains.

One of the lodges on the Ultimate Hikes guided hike

Each day ends at an ecolodge tucked into the wilderness, where scones, jam and cream await.
The highest point on the Routeburn Track is the Harris Saddle, 1,255m (4,117ft).
Ultimate Hikes leave from Queenstown or Te Anau.

Swing bridge on the Routeburn Track — Swing bridge on the trail

Compare the Milford and Routeburn Tracks to help you decide which one to do (or do both!).
You can undertake the hike in both directions, self-guided via Department of Conservation or guided, which is one way via Ultimate Hikes.

Conditions can change quickly on the alpine trail

For Routeburn Track weather forecasts, go to Metservice NZ. Note, the forecast is only accurate for the current and next 2-3 days. The weather is unpredictable beyond that point given the mountains.