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Courses

Australia: Alpine Skills Course

Published October 2020 by Trevor. Updated June 2021.

Introduction

What do you get when you sign up with an accomplished mountaineer? And the first Australian and Commonwealth citizen to have climbed all 14 x 8000ers – without oxygen? Well, with Andrew Lock, you get the full gambit. There is nothing that this guy doesn’t know. We would trust him with our lives if it depended on it. So with that, we signed up with Andrew to undertake an essential alpine skills course.

Sunrise in Kosciuszko National Park
Sunrise in Kosciuszko National Park

Alpine Skills

The three day course is designed to teach you the necessary skills to enjoy Australia’s alpine regions, responsibly and safely. Coupled with an option of an ascent of Australia’s tallest peak, Mt Kosciuszko (2,228m).

Snoeshoeing
Snoeshoeing to our campsite

A fascinating fact of Mt Kosciuszko. While it’s about one quarter of the size of Mt Everest at 8848m, Everest is only a baby. Everest at 60 million years old is younger than Kosciuszko, at 440 million years old!

Towing the pulk
Towing the pulk

Setting off from Thredbo in great conditions carrying a 18kg pack, we snow shoed up towards the main range located in the Snowy Mountains. We took turns to tow a pulk behind us which was loaded up with more of our camping gear.

Pitching tent
Pitching our tent

The first thing you learn when you are exposed to alpine conditions, is to select your tent site carefully, having checked the prevailing wind direction. Followed then by protecting your site by building a snow wall to protect your tent from the elements. This proved very beneficial as we encountered some 70kmh winds which made for some interesting navigation skills in white out conditions.

Snow wall around tent
Carefully constructed snow walls!

Having hiked up Australia’s tallest peak, Mt Kosciuszko in summer, the alpine winter conditions encountered were naturally, very different. We managed to summit not only ‘Kosci’ (as we locals call it) but also two of Australia’s other tallest peaks in Rams Head North and Etheridge Ridge.

View from Rams Head North
View from Rams Head North
View of tents coming down from Rams Head North
View of tents coming down from Rams Head North

A recent film made in conjunction with the North Face, titled ‘Western Faces‘ mentions that Australia’s alpine conditions are of a similar and challenging terrain as found in Chamonix, France, with lots of powder snow and steep terrain. Which just goes to prove, you don’t need to travel all the way overseas to encounter great snow conditions and to have fun.

Onwards and upwards!

Trevor

Whiteout
Whiteout conditions on our last day

Insights

  • you can find this Essential Alpine Skills Course, along with others that Andrew provides, on his website.
  • Skills learnt on the course ranged from clothing and equipment selection, emergency shelters, snow craft, route selection, navigation, weather assessment, group management, hypothermia prevention and leave no trace skills and ethics.
Alpine lessons with Andrew Lock
Alpine lessons with Andrew Lock
  • Other useful skills learnt covered avalanche awareness. Despite Australia being relatively flat when compared to other countries, the alpine regions do encounter avalanches.
melting snow for water
Melting snow for water
Making snow blocks
Making snow blocks for the walls
  • Make sure you check various weather forecast sites before you set off – Bureau of Meteorology and Mountain Forecast.
  • Check out Andrew’s book ‘Summit 8000’ for more inspirational stories of Andrew’s 14 x 8,000er summits https://www.andrewlockadventures.com/.
  • Read more of our posts about adventures in the Kosciuszko region here.
Kosciuszko summit with Andrew Lock
On the summit of Kosciuszko with Andrew Lock – the inspiration for Project Base8000!
Kosciuszko beer
A well-earned Kosciuszko beer at the end!

Pyrenees: Winter Expedition Skills Course

Published February 2019 by Trevor. Updated October 2021.

In this post:
  • Introduction
  • Expedition Life
  • Pico Aneto
  • Insights

Introduction

Undertaking a winter expedition skills course in the Pyrenees can throw up the odd surprise. This one proved no exception. 

Snow shoe trail
Setting off on the trail – snow shoes on

From climbing, snowshoeing, abseiling, glacier travel, crevasse rescue, avalanche assessment and response, self arrest, knots, rope work, mountain hut life and jumaring to digging a snow hole. Except for a summit of the highest mountain in the Spanish Pyrenees, Pico Aneto, we did it. 

Self arresting
Learning to self arrest – boots up!

The weather forecast was looking reasonable. With our expert guides, we all set off for what was to prove an experience of our life. Anticipating around 3 hours to snow shoe up to the Refugio Renclusa (2,140m) from where we left our van, we took seven hours.

Snowed In
Snowed in at the Refugio

Finishing in the darkness, we fell into our hut somewhat weather beaten, but with spirits intact. Along with freezing conditions, snow blowing from every conceivable angle you could imagine and a few ‘motivating’ words to the group – this all set the tone for the rest of the trip.

Refugio La Reclusa
Heading into safety at Refugio La Reclusa

Expedition Life

Mimicking expedition life, each of us carried around 15-18kg. This included all of our equipment and food required for the next five days on the mountain. It made for heavy going at times in breaking ground through the deep snow pack. Taking in turns to cook the meals in teams – well let’s just say the porridge was often of a standard found on most expeditions. That’s all I’m going to say about the cooking!

Geared Up
Loaded up with all our gear

I don’t know about you, but being confined to a hut for a couple of days can drive people crazy. Especially very active ones. So, when our very experienced guides suggested we head outside in a blizzard in minus 23deg C temperatures for a short roped up walk, well, we all followed but with some trepidation. After all, we had all signed up for a winter expedition skills course – so bring it on. 

Blizzard
Battling the blizzard (Photo: 360 Expeditions)

Over the next few days we practiced building snow anchors for varied terrain conditions, self arresting with an ice axe, digging a snow cave, climbing and abseiling skills and learning how to spot an avalanche risk area. As if to prove a point, there were avalanches setting off all around us. This was not surprising given the fact that overnight we had something like 2-3m of snow and lots of wind. 

Snow Anchor
Building and testing out a snow anchor

Pico Aneto

Teaching us the basics of expedition life and the skills gained, we had then planned to climb up to the summit of Pico Aneto. Pico Aneto is the highest mountain in the Pyrenees and Aragon, and Spain’s third-highest mountain, reaching a height of 3,404m.

Snowy gear
The snow got in everywhere – now where are my snow shoes?

Well, that was the plan until mother nature intervened again. With conditions never experienced before in these parts even by local standards, the forecast at the summit was 120 km/h winds and minus 42deg C. Wise heads prevailed and we decided along with our guides to exit stage right and head back down to the relatively safety of where we had left our van. Relative being the operative word as first of all we had to locate the van, then dig it out from the snow drift that it was buried under.

Lined up for a lesson
Lined up for a lesson from the Master!

Now, we didn’t know it at the time, but the people in charge of the Refugio had been out filming this crazy international crew of ours. The footage even made it onto the Spanish TV news much to the delight of the local Spanish police that we bumped into, who knew more about us then we of them. 

Rock climbing
Rock climbing near Luchon

We capped off a great week by honing up on our rock climbing skills and crevasse rescue techniques on some local crags near Luchon, France. We may have gone away not knowing each other, but we all came back as friends and learnt a lot about our capabilities and working as a team. 

Onwards and upwards!

Trevor

Crevasse rescue
Crevasse rescue – demonstrating how it’s done properly

Insights

  • There are numerous companies or guides offering winter skills expedition courses. In the Pyrenees, we recommend 360 Expeditions based in Luchon, France  
  • Guides – listen and adhere to your guide’s instructions, they are the experts and know more than you for a reason.
Coco the Pyrenean Mountain Dog
Coco the Pyrenean Mountain Dog
  • Always check the mountain weather forecast before heading out e.g. Mountain Forecast – Pico Aneto. 
  • Go on a winter skills course with an open mind and willingness to learn. You’ll gain more confidence in the mountains for your next trekking or mountaineering expedition. 
Sun on the mountains
A brief moment of sunshine in the Pyrenees

Australia: Snow Climbing on Mt Kosciuszko

Published June 2018 by Trevor. Updated April 2021.

In this post:
  • Introduction
  • Mt Kosciuszko
  • Objective
  • Skills Test
  • Insights

Introduction

In preparation for our climb of Mera Peak (6,476m/21,247ft) in the Himalayas, we decided to undertake a snow climbing course on Mt Kosciuszko. Mt Kosciuszko is the highest point in Australia at 2,228m/7,310ft.

Trevor and snow climbing guide
Trevor and our guide from K7 Adventures, with a great view looking towards the east coast

Mt Kosciuszko

Officially, Mt Kosciuszko is the traditional ‘Seventh / 7th Summit’. Whilst lower than Puncak Jaya/Carstenz Pyramid in West Papua, Mt Kosciuszko is still on the essential ‘Seven Summits’ list for the majority of mountaineers.

Snow shoeing out to the back country
Snow shoeing out to the back country

Objective

Our objective this day was to head up and out the back of the Thredbo ski fields, snow shoes in hand, well beyond the maddening ski crowds. We were met by blue skies, no wind,  lots of snow and ice and the odd bunny rabbit for company. At times, I’m sure the rabbits must have thought someone is in the wrong place – and I know it wasn’t only the rabbits thinking that!

Sorting out the ropes to get ready for our climb
Sorting out the ropes to get ready for our climb

Skills Test

This was a test of our climbing and self arrest skills, with ice axe, crampons, ropes and harness – together with our clothing choices. Note to oneself, wear warmer socks next time.

Snow climbers
All ready to go!

I must say, our guide for the day had a lot of patience! Being our first time, it took awhile to master all the knots. Once harnessed up though, it was up and atom. First, ascending with an ice axe, front pointing with crampons. Then abseiling down with gravity taking hold on the way down.

Starting the abseil back down
Starting the abseil back down

Self arresting was interesting and while easy on the gently angled snow slope, would be more challenging if you had ice to contend with. With the snow melting in the afternoon sun and with dusk approaching, it was time to snow shoe back home with all of our gear in tow.

Abseiling down - view from the top
Abseiling down – view from the top

All up, it was a very useful day out practicing our snow climbing skills in a wonderful winter playground in the Australian Alps.

Onwards and upwards!

Trevor

Almost finished the abseil down
Almost finished the abseil down

Insights

  • Stay warm, adhering to the clothing layer system and take plenty of water.
  • The winter season used to extend from mid-May until mid-October. However rising sea temperatures have meant shorter winters with a diminished snow pack.
  • If you are planning to climb Mt Kosciuszko between June and September, expect cold weather and from time to time blizzards that may last for several days. These blizzards arise from strong winds from the Southern Ocean, hence the snow in Australia having a high moisture content.
The view to the top - its steeper than it looks!
The view to the top – its steeper than it looks!
  • There is a National Park entry fee – $AUD27. Purchase at the NPWS Jindabyne Visitor’s Centre or the Vehicle Entry Stations on the Alpine Way and Kosciuszko Road.
  • If driving up from Jindabyne to Thredbo, make sure you leave early and allow extra time.  It’s not uncommon for early traffic jams to build especially during the winter ski season and the car parking gets full pretty quickly.
Another view of the abseil
Another view of the abseil
  • Always check the snow and road conditions. It’s not uncommon for roads to be closed during the winter season.
  • Carry snow chains in winter (check the road signs).
  • Check the local weather and mountain forecasts before you go – Bureau of Meteorology Weather Alpine Forecast including the forecast for Thredbo and the Mountain forecast for Mount Kosciuszko
  • Read more of our posts about adventures in the Kosciuszko region here.
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