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Which mountaineering book to read next?

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Trying to decide on which mountaineering book you should read next? Or even where to start? Use our handy mind map to find a pathway for reading books you’ll like.

We created this mind map to show the connections between many of the books we’ve read. It’s by no means a complete list of mountaineering books, but it does show how many mountaineers and stories are connected, and what a small community it is.

It’s fascinating to get different perspectives on the same story or the same mountain or the same climber. The links we’ve found include:

  • mountaineers that were inspired by a particular book or person e.g. Ed Viesturs being inspired to climb by reading Annapurna
  • mountaineers that climbed together and are mentioned in each others’ books e.g. Anatoli Boukreev and Andrew Lock
  • or simply mountaineers that they came across or mentioned in their book
  • personal stories based on the same event e.g. all the books about the 1996 Everest disaster
Mountaineering books mind map

Where to start?

Popular books that people gravitate towards are those highlighted in green on the mind map i.e.

  • Annapurna – Maurice Herzog
  • Into Thin Air – Jon Krakauer
  • High Adventure or View From The Summit – Edmund Hillary

Topics to get engrossed in

14 x 8000ers – mountaineers who have completed the ‘grand slam’ of mountaineering – climbing all the highest peaks in the world over 8000m e.g.

  • Everest – Reinhold Messner – first to climb all 14 x 8000ers
  • No Shortcuts to the Top – Ed Viesturs – first American
  • Summit 8000 – Andrew Lock – first Australian and British Commonwealth citizen

Female Mountaineers – there are not nearly as many female mountaineers, so it’s fascinating to read about experiences from a female perspective e.g.

  • Arlene Blum – Breaking Trail
  • Cathy O’Dowd – Just For The Love Of It
  • Lene Gammelgaard – Climbing High

Classics – the early days of mountaineering and ascents of the 8000ers and other significant climbs e.g.

  • Annapurna – Maurice Herzog
  • Conquistadors of the Useless – Lionel Terray
  • Blank on the Map – Eric Shipton
  • The White Spider – Heinrich Harrer
  • High Adventure or View From The Summit – Edmund Hillary
  • Everest the Hard Way – Chris Bonington

1996 Everest Disaster – while we’d rather read about great mountaineering experiences rather than disasters, this topic probably has the most books written about it, and it’s interesting to read the story from so many different perspectives e.g.

  • Into Thin Air – Jon Krakauer
  • The Climb – Anatoli Boukreev with G. Weston deWalt
  • Left for Dead – Beck Weathers
  • Dr on Everest – Kenneth Kamler M.D.
  • Mountain Madness (the story of Scott Fischer) – Robert Birkby

For more books, see our list of Books to read for Armchair Mountaineers.

Happy reading!

Mt Everest

New Zealand: Climbing Mt Taranaki

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Climbing up Mt Taranaki, a dormant volcano, is no walk in the park. So don’t let anyone tell you that getting up to the summit of Mt Taranaki (2,518m) is easy. From the Egmont National Park Visitors Centre, it’s a challenging climb of around 1,600m to the top.

Climbing Mt Taranaki
Above the clouds on the steep slope of Mt Taranaki

In perfect weather, we climbed up Mt Taranaki in mid February. To provide enough daylight hours to summit and get back down safely, we started around 6am in darkness. Then, descending back down, we reached the Visitors Centre around dusk. This day, there were quite a few people heading up so it was nice to have company, including my partner’s family and exchange students from Germany.

The Route

Starting from the Egmont Visitors Centre, the route is around 12.6km return. We allowed for at least 10-12 hours, though it took us around 14 hours in the end. My partner’s nephew, some 2m tall, bounded up and back much faster! We were equally impressed with my partner’s nearly-12 year old niece who summited, exclaiming at one point “I didn’t come all this way to give up now!”.

The Puffer track
Heading up “The Puffer”

North Egmont Visitors Centre (946m) to Tahurangi Lodge (1,492m)

This is approximately 4km, around 1 1/2 to 2 hours.

We took the Summit Track which starts on a boardwalk. Reaching a locked gate, we were able to enter through the turnstile. We continued up the steep and corrugated service road, known by locals as “The Puffer”. This took us to the privately owned Tahurangi Lodge, part of the Taranaki Alpine Club.

Tahurangi Lodge
Good stop for a breather at Tahurangi Lodge

A public toilet is located 100m below the lodge. Note, this is the only available toilet on the way up to the summit.

Tahurangi Lodge to the summit (2,518m)

This section is 2.3km, around 3-4 hours. It is also the hardest part.

Passing the Tahurangi Lodge, the track continued upwards through a rocky valley. Orange poles showed where the route led all the way to the top. There were also helpful signposts at key points to help you decide whether it was safe to continue on.

Signpost leading up to the stairs, helpful for climbing Mt Taranaki
One of the useful yellow safety signposts at the bottom of the stairs

From the valley, a wooden staircase led us up to the next section – a steep scree slope! This where you practice the old ‘one step forward, two steps back routine’. Using trekking poles on this section definitely assisted us.

Coming up the scree slope
Coming up the long scree slope

Having congratulated ourselves on climbing the scree slope (2,134m), we were presented with the next challenge – the “Lizard”. This is 300m of steep rock which you scramble up to the crater’s entrance. We had to take special care at the top. The rock face narrows as you come around the corner and down into the crater.

Scrambling up the Lizard while climbing Mt Taranaki
Scrambling up the ‘Lizard’

The route then took you across the crater and the final short climb up to the summit. We had soft snow in the crater to navigate so in the end, it was comfortable to cross though I can imagine that would turn to ice very easily in bad weather.

Crater
We made it to the crater!
View from the summit
View from the summit (Photo: Richard H)

Now, to come back down (you’re only half way)

Believe it or not, you’ve done the relative easy part. This is now where you have to refocus as many accidents or falls happen on the descent. We saw a few on the way down. Take your time and come down the Lizard on your backside if you have to. I did and managed to get down safely, though at the end, I did have a few holes in my trousers where I slid down.

On the descent
On the descent

Once you have descended the Lizard, you now need to navigate the scoria/scree. It’s much easier if you can find some deep stuff to dig your heels in and slide down. Some people prefer to just run down to keep momentum, but in any event do whatever you feel comfortable with. If you have hiking/trekking poles, use them.

View from a distance
View of Mt Taranaki from a distance

And just when you think it’s all over – guess what? You have to navigate the stairs and then the Puffer. At this stage, your legs are tired but your mind is willing. The end is in sight, but it seems to take a long time to get there.

Lower slopes
Lower slopes of the mountain

In completing the climb, we are now deemed by the locals as ‘Taranaki hard core’! A big thanks to Richard and family for taking us up.

Onwards and upwards!

Trevor

Elevation Profile - climbing Mt Taranaki
Elevation Profile to the crater – one tough climb!

Insights – Climbing Mt Taranaki

  • Climbing Mt Taranaki is very challenging. Allow plenty of time and leave early.
  • Sturdy hiking boots are best, especially for descending the scree slope.
  • There is no water available on the track. We took around 3 litres each in a bladder and used it all up.
Looking across the crater
Looking back across the crater
  • If the weather deteriorates, turn back. Cloud can descend at any time making it difficult to see the route.
  • Above Tahurangi Lodge, numbered orange marker poles lead to the summit and give you an indication of how far you have to go as well as keep you on course. Count them on the way down – it’s fun.
Orange poles on the track to help while climbing Mt Taranaki
Orange poles on the track

The best time to climb Mt Taranaki is from February to mid-April when the slopes are bare of snow, though ice remains year round in the crater. And, don’t forget to sign the trip intentions book at the Egmont Visitors Centre.

Pyrenees: Winter Expedition Skills Course

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Introduction

Undertaking a winter expedition skills course in the Pyrenees can throw up the odd surprise. This one proved no exception. 

Snow shoe trail
Setting off on the trail – snow shoes on

From climbing, snowshoeing, abseiling, glacier travel, crevasse rescue, avalanche assessment and response, self arrest, knots, rope work, mountain hut life and jumaring to digging a snow hole. Except for a summit of the highest mountain in the Spanish Pyrenees, Pico Aneto, we did it. 

Self arresting
Learning to self arrest – boots up!

The weather forecast was looking reasonable. With our expert guides, we all set off for what was to prove an experience of our life. Anticipating around 3 hours to snow shoe up to the Refugio Renclusa (2,140m) from where we left our van, we took seven hours.

Snowed In
Snowed in at the Refugio

Finishing in the darkness, we fell into our hut somewhat weather beaten, but with spirits intact. Along with freezing conditions, snow blowing from every conceivable angle you could imagine and a few ‘motivating’ words to the group – this all set the tone for the rest of the trip.

Refugio La Reclusa
Heading into safety at Refugio La Reclusa

Expedition Life

Mimicking expedition life, each of us carried around 15-18kg. This included all of our equipment and food required for the next five days on the mountain. It made for heavy going at times in breaking ground through the deep snow pack. Taking in turns to cook the meals in teams – well let’s just say the porridge was often of a standard found on most expeditions. That’s all I’m going to say about the cooking!

Geared Up
Loaded up with all our gear

I don’t know about you, but being confined to a hut for a couple of days can drive people crazy. Especially very active ones. So, when our very experienced guides suggested we head outside in a blizzard in minus 23deg C temperatures for a short roped up walk, well, we all followed but with some trepidation. After all, we had all signed up for a winter expedition skills course – so bring it on. 

Blizzard
Battling the blizzard (Photo: 360 Expeditions)

Over the next few days we practiced building snow anchors for varied terrain conditions, self arresting with an ice axe, digging a snow cave, climbing and abseiling skills and learning how to spot an avalanche risk area. As if to prove a point, there were avalanches setting off all around us. This was not surprising given the fact that overnight we had something like 2-3m of snow and lots of wind. 

Snow Anchor
Building and testing out a snow anchor

Pico Aneto

Teaching us the basics of expedition life and the skills gained, we had then planned to climb up to the summit of Pico Aneto. Pico Aneto is the highest mountain in the Pyrenees and Aragon, and Spain’s third-highest mountain, reaching a height of 3,404m.

Snowy gear
The snow got in everywhere – now where are my snow shoes?

Well, that was the plan until mother nature intervened again. With conditions never experienced before in these parts even by local standards, the forecast at the summit was 120 km/h winds and minus 42deg C. Wise heads prevailed and we decided along with our guides to exit stage right and head back down to the relatively safety of where we had left our van. Relative being the operative word as first of all we had to locate the van, then dig it out from the snow drift that it was buried under.

Lined up for a lesson
Lined up for a lesson from the Master!

Now, we didn’t know it at the time, but the people in charge of the Refugio had been out filming this crazy international crew of ours. The footage even made it onto the Spanish TV news much to the delight of the local Spanish police that we bumped into, who knew more about us then we of them. 

Rock climbing
Rock climbing near Luchon

We capped off a great week by honing up on our rock climbing skills and crevasse rescue techniques on some local crags near Luchon, France. We may have gone away not knowing each other, but we all came back as friends and learnt a lot about our capabilities and working as a team. 

Onwards and upwards!

Trevor

Crevasse rescue
Crevasse rescue – demonstrating how it’s done properly

Insights

  • There are numerous companies or guides offering winter skills expedition courses. In the Pyrenees, we recommend 360 Expeditions based in Luchon, France  
  • Guides – listen and adhere to your guide’s instructions, they are the experts and know more than you for a reason.
Coco the Pyrenean Mountain Dog
Coco the Pyrenean Mountain Dog
  • Always check the mountain weather forecast before heading out e.g. Mountain Forecast – Pico Aneto. 
  • Go on a winter skills course with an open mind and willingness to learn. You’ll gain more confidence in the mountains for your next trekking or mountaineering expedition. 
Sun on the mountains
A brief moment of sunshine in the Pyrenees

Australia: Snow Climbing on Mt Kosciuszko

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Introduction

In preparation for our climb of Mera Peak (6,476m/21,247ft) in the Himalayas, we decided to undertake a snow climbing course on Mt Kosciuszko. Mt Kosciuszko is the highest point in Australia at 2,228m/7,310ft.

Trevor and snow climbing guide
Trevor and our guide from K7 Adventures, with a great view looking towards the east coast

Mt Kosciuszko

Officially, Mt Kosciuszko is the traditional ‘Seventh / 7th Summit’. Whilst lower than Puncak Jaya/Carstenz Pyramid in West Papua, Mt Kosciuszko is still on the essential ‘Seven Summits’ list for the majority of mountaineers.

Snow shoeing out to the back country
Snow shoeing out to the back country

Objective

Our objective this day was to head up and out the back of the Thredbo ski fields, snow shoes in hand, well beyond the maddening ski crowds. We were met by blue skies, no wind,  lots of snow and ice and the odd bunny rabbit for company. At times, I’m sure the rabbits must have thought someone is in the wrong place – and I know it wasn’t only the rabbits thinking that!

Sorting out the ropes to get ready for our climb
Sorting out the ropes to get ready for our climb

Skills Test

This was a test of our climbing and self arrest skills, with ice axe, crampons, ropes and harness – together with our clothing choices. Note to oneself, wear warmer socks next time.

Snow climbers
All ready to go!

I must say, our guide for the day had a lot of patience! Being our first time, it took awhile to master all the knots. Once harnessed up though, it was up and atom. First, ascending with an ice axe, front pointing with crampons. Then abseiling down with gravity taking hold on the way down.

Starting the abseil back down
Starting the abseil back down

Self arresting was interesting and while easy on the gently angled snow slope, would be more challenging if you had ice to contend with. With the snow melting in the afternoon sun and with dusk approaching, it was time to snow shoe back home with all of our gear in tow.

Abseiling down - view from the top
Abseiling down – view from the top

All up, it was a very useful day out practicing our snow climbing skills in a wonderful winter playground in the Australian Alps.

Onwards and upwards!

Trevor

Almost finished the abseil down
Almost finished the abseil down

Insights

  • Stay warm, adhering to the clothing layer system and take plenty of water.
  • The winter season used to extend from mid-May until mid-October. However rising sea temperatures have meant shorter winters with a diminished snow pack.
  • If you are planning to climb Mt Kosciuszko between June and September, expect cold weather and from time to time blizzards that may last for several days. These blizzards arise from strong winds from the Southern Ocean, hence the snow in Australia having a high moisture content.
The view to the top - its steeper than it looks!
The view to the top – its steeper than it looks!
  • There is a National Park entry fee – $AUD27. Purchase at the NPWS Jindabyne Visitor’s Centre or the Vehicle Entry Stations on the Alpine Way and Kosciuszko Road.
  • If driving up from Jindabyne to Thredbo, make sure you leave early and allow extra time.  It’s not uncommon for early traffic jams to build especially during the winter ski season and the car parking gets full pretty quickly.
Another view of the abseil
Another view of the abseil