Arrival
Arriving in Havana, the first thing that hits you are the wrought iron doors behind the immigration counter. It’s like stepping back into the communist past era as they open and shut behind you. Welcome to Cuba, where the sun never sets and your salsa experience begins.
Reform
While reform of the economy is slowly taking place, many of the older generation are wondering how they will cope with change. Given that they have always been told what to do, in a socialistic sense – how to behave and what to eat.
Cubans fear their future is now uncertain, especially among the older generation. But change is happening – and will happen fast.
Colour
The first thing that strikes you about Cuba is the colour. The pastel blues and fuchsia pinks of the old colonial buildings. The colourful, cigar-smoking street characters carrying songbird cages or selling home-made paper cones filled with peanuts. The classic American cars with their polished chrome bumpers, albeit fast disappearing in place of cheap imports from Korea and Japan.
Music
And, the music. It seems that around every street corner and in every town square there’s a band playing salsa, soul or some other derivative, a brightly-coloured bata drum being slapped or a guitar being plucked to create those Afro-Cuban vibes.
The rhythm just gets under your skin.
We were lucky to experience the Buena Vista Social Club. None of the band members were under 70 years of age, but boy did they have swing and rhythm to beat.
Go Now
Travel experts are urging you to go now to Cuba before it changes. But visitors envisioning salsa in the streets and glamorous vintage cars should also be prepared to get by without ATMs, credit cards, limited and slow Wi-Fi, air-conditioning, seatbelts or toilet paper.
Onwards and upwards.
Trevor
Insights
- You can fly to Cuba direct from Panama, Mexico or other Central American Countries. This is relatively easy and inexpensive.
- You can also fly direct from Toronto, Canada.
- Obtaining a visa is straight forward. You can apply at the airport before you board your plane, and receive a piece of paper (no stamp in your passport). This is especially relevant to American travellers on non organised tours.
- Accommodation options – Casas particulares are B&B-style private homestays that offer tourists an authentic experience and provide locals with much-needed income. You can also stay at hotels which are mostly 2-3 stars by western standards but extremely comfortable nevertheless.
- At sunset, head along to El Malecón, the promenade and sea wall where locals and tourists congregate. Then stroll over to La Bodeguita del Medio for a mojito. The cocktails served at the iconic bar were good enough for former resident Ernest Hemingway.
- Don’t forget to check out the The Hotel Nacional de Cuba. It’s a historic luxury hotel located on the Malecón. You can’t miss it as it stands on Taganana Hill a few metres from the sea, offering a view of Havana Harbour, the seawall and the city. You may even want to stay for a night.
- Violent crime in Havana is rare. We never felt threatened – just hassled. However, be aware that pickpocketing and bag snatching are on the increase.
- Besides Havana, also check out Viñales and the Spanish colonial town such as Trinidad.
- If you plan to travel outside Havana, it’s best to hire a driver and a car. It’s relatively inexpensive.
- Cigars – don’t forget to buy the best premium hand rolled!
- Weather wise, January and February are the best months to visit.
- If you must go online in Havana, hotels sell internet cards for lobby WiFi. Be prepared to pay around US$4-US$5, per 30 minutes.
- Carry plenty of cash (USD) as credit cards aren’t widely accepted. Bring cash to change into convertible pesos, also known as CUCs (not CUPs, the currency used by locals). On paper, one USD is worth one CUC. The Cuban government currently takes a 13 per cent fee, so you get 87 cents for your dollar. Privately, Cubans may offer 90 cents or more in the dollar but be careful who you trust.
- For more reading and insights into Cuba and other countries see our post on Adventure Travel books
